Energy-Efficient Window And Door Tax Credit For 2009—Up To $1,500 Back



If you’re planning a window or door replacement project, then now’s the time. That’s because you can receive a tax credit for 30% of the cost of qualified energy-efficient windows and doors, up to $1,500. This is a huge opportunity for you.

The tax credit was originally a measly $200 for windows and up to $500 for doors. Now Congress and the President have passed the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act, aka “The Stimulus.” Inside is a provision that triples the old tax credit.

This isn’t just a handout. To qualify for the new Tax Credit, you have to be a smart shopper and buy the most energy-efficient windows. Energy Star certification, the old standard, doesn’t cut it anymore. The new standard will help our country become energy independent. Plus, better windows save you money on energy bills and keep you comfortable all year round.

What Are The Requirements For The Tax Credit?

Only windows and doors with a U-Factor of .30 or less qualify. U-Factor is a measure of the window’s overall energy-efficiency. Many windows have U-Factors of .31 or .32. Those don’t qualify.

Windows and doors also need a Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) of .30 or less. A low SHGC blocks the blistering heat that comes through windows in the summer, reducing the load on your air conditioning. Once again, .31 or .32 aren’t good enough. It has to be exactly .30 or less.

U-Factor and SHGC are independently tested and verified for windows by the National Fenestration Rating Council. Any reputable window will have a NFRC sticker.

How To Tell Which Windows And Doors Qualify

To get your $1,500 tax credit, you need to shop smart. Many windows and doors out there don’t meet the new requirements—even some high-end brands you’ve heard of. A lot of companies haven’t processed or don’t even know about the new tax credit. There’s a lot of confusion about this right now—you don’t want to be left empty-handed.

Here’s what you need to do: Make sure that any replacement window or door you buy has a U-Factor and SHGC of .30 or less. If the window company won’t show you the NFRC sticker certifying the ratings, walk away. If you’re unsure or suspicious, visit the NFRC at www.nfrc.org. You can verify ratings in the product directory or contact them directly.

How To Claim Your 2009 Energy Tax Credit For Windows And Doors

1. Purchase and install any replacement window, patio door, or entry door with a U-Factor and SHGC of .30 or below between January 1, 2009 and December 31, 2010.

2. Save your receipt and each window and door performance label (NFRC label) with your tax documents.

3. Claim your tax credit on your Federal filing for the 2009 or 2010 tax year.

Terms and Limitations

• The tax credit is for the cost of the product only and does not include installation costs. Be sure to ask for a sales receipt that shows the cost of the product only.

• The tax credit is 30% of the amount paid up to a $1,500 maximum.

• If a combination of windows and doors are purchased, the total maximum credit is $1,500.

• This is a new tax credit for 2009/2010

Kitchen and Bathroom Electrical Wiring Gfci Electrical Circuit Wiring – Bathrooms and Kitchen Areas Require Special Electrical Wiring -



Kitchen and Bath Areas

GFCI Electrical Wiring

Remodeling Wiring for Kitchens and Baths

Remodeling Wiring for Kitchens and Baths

Kitchens and Bath areas require special electricity wiring for electrical outlets.

The electrical outlet locations are also much different than in other portions of homes.

What are electrical requirements for kitchen and bath areas?

As electrical requirements change frequently be sure to check with your certified local electrician for any special requirements you and questions for your kitchen or bath remodeling. This a summary of a few of the guidelines from the national electrical code a few years back.

In the kitchen area the NEC requires no more than 6 fee from a given location to be from an outlet which would make the outlets no more than 12 feet apart with special outlet locations in the kitchen area or over counter-tops.

Counter-top receptacles in your kitchen must be served by two or more different circuits. Each kitchen counter space that is wider than 12 inches must have its own outlet, with no point along than countertop being more than 24 inches apart horizontally or 48″ of space between the outlets in the kitchen.

Often electricians run a three wire 240 volt cable from the service panel and provide two new 120 volt circuits. One side of each receptacle is served by one of the  circuits while the other side is served by the other circuit, giving two circuits available at each outlet which gives the term split circuit. Protection for over-current on a split circuit used a double breaker which is linked in the circuit’s panel.

Ensuring kitchen and bathroom safety, the NEC requires GFCI protection in all new bathrooms, and in kitchen outlets within six feet of the kitchen’s sink and other locations around the house. Adding ground fault protection to existing circuits makes sense in any bathroom or kitchen.

A “ground Fault” is a current leak caused by faulty electrical insulation in a tool or appliance which is plugged in. This current leak may be too small to trip a circuit breaker for your kitchen or bath area, yet can prove fatal to anyone standing on a wet floor or touching a grounded metal plumbing fixture for an example.

There are three GFCI types. One is a circuit breaker installed in the main panel. A second type of GFCI outlet is installed in the outlet box as a replacement for an existing outlet, and there also is a simple plug in GFCI outlet or extension cord. Installing a feed through GFCI outlet is the most common for kitchen and bath areas with more than one outlet. A feed through GFCI allows ground fault protection to all of the receptacles beyond the outlet in the same circuit.

Although adding GFI outlets is very simple step when remodeling kitchen or bathrooms ]people wanting to do work them selves too often make the fatal mistake of missing the minor addition of the correct type of outlet. Be sure to understand this step, or hire an electrician to make sure your kitchen and bathroom areas have the right gauge electrical wiring at the right spacing apart,  and at very least ensure your circuits in areas such as Kitchens and baths where moisture can be present is protected with a GFI style of outlet.

We hope this helps as you start your new kitchen planning and kitchen remodel. Please let us know what information you were looking for on our website does not have the content you are looking for so we can be sure to include it in the future – Thank You!

Kitchen and Bath Areas

GFCI Electrical Wiring

Remodeling Wiring for Kitchens and Baths

Kitchen and Bathroom Remodeling Circuits and Wiring

Tips on Oil Painting – Solvents Mediums and Varnishes



If you paint with oils you will need a solvent to clean your brushes and thin your paints. Of course, if you paint with water soluble oils then your solvent will be water.

Turpentine is a standard solvent used to thin ordinary oil paints. You can purchase turpentine in any art supply store or hardware store. In some cases, the kind of turpentine you buy in a hardware store may be fresher because of the shorter turnaround time.

Some artists work with mineral spirits. These are also available in hardware stores. To save money, buy the largest available quantity and use a smaller container when you do your actual painting.

Tube oil paint (i.e., oil paint directly from the tube) can be difficult to manipulate. Some colors are stiffer than others and may be hard to evenly distribute over your canvas. To solve this problem, artists often need to mix their tube paints with a so-called painting medium.

A painting medium is a liquid solution that makes the oil paint smoother and easier to manipulate. Adding any one of a number of different painting mediums changes the consistency of the paint. Some mediums are meant to make the paint thinner for glazing and others are meant to make the paint thicker for impasto painting. There are also mediums to shorten or lengthen the drying.

 

The most basic medium is regular turpentine. Adding a little turpentine thins oils paint. Another frequently used medium is linseed oil, which makes the paint more fluid but, over time, it also tends to yellow the paint. The most commonly used medium is a combination of turpentine and linseed oil, sometimes with the addition of a little damar varnish.

Begin by experimenting with a half-and-half mixture of turpentine and linseed oil. Because linseed oil slows down the drying process, you may want to increase the proportion of turpentine. A good mixture is three parts of turpentine to one part of linseed oil.

Once you find the medium you like, mix a batch and store it in a tightly sealed jar. As you paint, dip your brush into the medium, then add a little paint, then mix them together on your palette (mixing surface).

Preliminary compositions can be drawn on your canvas with a so-called thin turp wash, i.e., a little bit of paint with a lot of turpentine. A turp wash evaporates very quickly, so you can quickly paint over them.

In general, the more turpentine you use the matter the finish will be and the more linseed oil you use the glossier it will be. If you like robust, permanently visible brushstrokes, you may want to use less medium. Dry brush is one technique where you do not add any medium at all.

Special painting mediums are also available that change the oil paint in different ways. The most common are those that shorten or lengthen the drying time of the oil paint. Check your art supply store or the Internet to see the available types of mediums. All medium bottles will show instructions on how best to use the particular medium.

Oil paintings must be varnished to protect them from undesirable elements such as dirt and toxins. Varnish is a clear solution made from a resin and turpentine or some other solvent.

In art-supply stores you will see two major types, retouching varnish and picture varnish. Depending on the paint layer thickness, it can take six months or more for an oil painting to dry. In the meantime, the surface of the painting needs to be protected with a coat of retouching varnish. After the varnish is applied, the turpentine evaporates, and leaving a thin protective coat. You can apply retouching varnish as soon as the paint feels dry to the touch.

 

Picture varnish contains more resin than retouching varnish. It should be applied about six months after you complete a painting. If you paint with impasto-like brushstrokes, you may have to wait as long as a year before applying the final coat.

 

Both types of varnish are applied in the same manner. Using a broad, flat nylon brush, apply the varnish evenly using horizontal strokes. You can also use retouching varnish to brighten dry dull patches in your painting.