Archive for Painting

Tips on Oil Painting – Solvents Mediums and Varnishes



If you paint with oils you will need a solvent to clean your brushes and thin your paints. Of course, if you paint with water soluble oils then your solvent will be water.

Turpentine is a standard solvent used to thin ordinary oil paints. You can purchase turpentine in any art supply store or hardware store. In some cases, the kind of turpentine you buy in a hardware store may be fresher because of the shorter turnaround time.

Some artists work with mineral spirits. These are also available in hardware stores. To save money, buy the largest available quantity and use a smaller container when you do your actual painting.

Tube oil paint (i.e., oil paint directly from the tube) can be difficult to manipulate. Some colors are stiffer than others and may be hard to evenly distribute over your canvas. To solve this problem, artists often need to mix their tube paints with a so-called painting medium.

A painting medium is a liquid solution that makes the oil paint smoother and easier to manipulate. Adding any one of a number of different painting mediums changes the consistency of the paint. Some mediums are meant to make the paint thinner for glazing and others are meant to make the paint thicker for impasto painting. There are also mediums to shorten or lengthen the drying.

 

The most basic medium is regular turpentine. Adding a little turpentine thins oils paint. Another frequently used medium is linseed oil, which makes the paint more fluid but, over time, it also tends to yellow the paint. The most commonly used medium is a combination of turpentine and linseed oil, sometimes with the addition of a little damar varnish.

Begin by experimenting with a half-and-half mixture of turpentine and linseed oil. Because linseed oil slows down the drying process, you may want to increase the proportion of turpentine. A good mixture is three parts of turpentine to one part of linseed oil.

Once you find the medium you like, mix a batch and store it in a tightly sealed jar. As you paint, dip your brush into the medium, then add a little paint, then mix them together on your palette (mixing surface).

Preliminary compositions can be drawn on your canvas with a so-called thin turp wash, i.e., a little bit of paint with a lot of turpentine. A turp wash evaporates very quickly, so you can quickly paint over them.

In general, the more turpentine you use the matter the finish will be and the more linseed oil you use the glossier it will be. If you like robust, permanently visible brushstrokes, you may want to use less medium. Dry brush is one technique where you do not add any medium at all.

Special painting mediums are also available that change the oil paint in different ways. The most common are those that shorten or lengthen the drying time of the oil paint. Check your art supply store or the Internet to see the available types of mediums. All medium bottles will show instructions on how best to use the particular medium.

Oil paintings must be varnished to protect them from undesirable elements such as dirt and toxins. Varnish is a clear solution made from a resin and turpentine or some other solvent.

In art-supply stores you will see two major types, retouching varnish and picture varnish. Depending on the paint layer thickness, it can take six months or more for an oil painting to dry. In the meantime, the surface of the painting needs to be protected with a coat of retouching varnish. After the varnish is applied, the turpentine evaporates, and leaving a thin protective coat. You can apply retouching varnish as soon as the paint feels dry to the touch.

 

Picture varnish contains more resin than retouching varnish. It should be applied about six months after you complete a painting. If you paint with impasto-like brushstrokes, you may have to wait as long as a year before applying the final coat.

 

Both types of varnish are applied in the same manner. Using a broad, flat nylon brush, apply the varnish evenly using horizontal strokes. You can also use retouching varnish to brighten dry dull patches in your painting.

Avoid the Pitfalls of Painting



Whether you’re a novice or professional, painting mishaps occur. These are usually the result of being a little careless in prepping the area by either laying down tarps or taping. Following is a list of mistakes commonly made in painting and some tips on how to avoid them:

Masking tape when taping, it’s common to forgo painter’s tape and use masking tape instead. However, professionals never use masking tape because of the residue it leaves behind. Painter’s tape, on the other hand, is designed to avoid leaving a sticky residue. Unless you are a professional who can skip the tape altogether and paint straight lines with a brush, you should opt for the painter’s tape to ensure clean windows, trim, ceilings, walls, etc.

Opting for high-gloss paint for the entire house If you would like a higher sheen in certain rooms such as the kitchen or bathroom, instead of a high-gloss, use a semi-gloss or satin finish. For the rest of the house a flat paint provides a clean, classy look, plus it better conceals blemishes than gloss (e.g. nail holes that have been puttied over).

Pacing the paint bucket in the center of the room. This will cause you to drip paint all over your floor. Instead, ensure that you cover your entire floor with either tarps or sheets and carry your paint bucket with you, keeping it within reach of the wall you are painting.

Trying to save money on your roller. Purchasing a roller frame is not the area to pinch pennies. The problem is that the cheaper the roller frame the more likely it is to bend after being pressed to the wall. This bending leads to unsightly roller marks. By simply shelling out a few more bucks, you can find a roller ($8 or $9) that will stand up against bending and endure several paint jobs.

Painting straight up and down. Rolling paint on vertically will leave an inconsistent sheen and visible lines marking each stroke. The middle of the roller produces thinner coats of paint than its edges resulting in a paint job that looks like it’s been done by an amateur. Try rolling a giant @ on a bare wall followed by two huge X’s above. Then fill the area with vertical strokes.

Putting flat paint on a wall that already has been painted with high-gloss, without first sanding. If you do this, the flat paint will bump up/ to avoid this, you need to make the high-gloss layer rougher by using sandpaper, or you can apply a little Di-sodium Phosphate before you paint.

How To Paint Your Interior Walls In Eight Easy Steps



There are just a few projects that you can do to your home that offer so much improvement at such a small cost as painting. You can change the entire look and feel of a room in a short amount of time. Painting is a very affordable ways to update any room with such a small expense.

The tools that you will need for this project are a paint brush, drop cloths, household cleaner, drywall compound or spackling, latex interior paint, screwdriver, putty knife, paint roller and a paint tray. If you do not already have some of these items they are readily available at most paint or hardware stores.

1. To begin with move all furniture away from the walls and cover all of your flooring with drop cloths. Next, remove all electrical switch plates and outlet covers. Replace the screws after removing the switch plates so they will not get lost. Remove all pictures and any other items hanging from the walls.

2. Using a household cleaning solution, clean the walls thoroughly. Rinse off with water and allow to fully dry. If you have any stains such as smoke or water stains you must prime these areas using an oil based primer. If you don’t prime these areas first, the stain will bleed through your new paint.

3. Using your joint compound or spackling and your putty knife, repair all nail holes and any other blemishes in the drywall.

4. Begin painting by trimming around all doors, windows, baseboards and the intersection with the ceiling and walls using your brush. Some people may wish to tape the edges of the trim using painters tape before they paint, but if you take your time and keep a rag handy to clean up any mistakes you should not have to do this.

5. Using your paint roller and paint tray, start painting the wall from the top corner and working your way down the wall with the paint. Paint in small sections, usually an area approximately 4′ x 4′ can be covered with each roller refill. Begin each new section beside the previous and then blend the paint edges together while still wet.

6. Continue to work quickly and don’t pause until you have completed one wall or have reached a break such as a door or the corner of the room.

7. Once the walls have completely dried, you can then decide if you will need a second coat.

8. Clean your brush, tray and roller using warm soapy water.

Be sure to wait until the paint is dry before removing the drop cloths. The drop cloths can damage floors and furniture if they still have wet paint on them while you are removing them. It’s a good idea to allow the paint at least a full day to dry before hanging pictures back on the walls.

Take you time and remember that the key to any good paint job is preparation. Follow these guidelines and I believe that you will be happy with the results.